[MOTORSPORT MANAGER] Strategie e simili

...ma aprire una sezione per questo gioco?:coatto::rolleyes:

dal forum steam...da parte di un utente...secondo lui...

Partendo dal tier 3

A) Practice is short (15 minutes), but no qualy, so don't focus on laptime. Just do outlaps to get your setup right. (in season 3 qualy has been voted in)

B) make sure your mechanics are always working on something. Aim to get everything to around 65%+. As the races roll on, reliability becomes less of a concern

C) New parts! Keep the factory rolling with new parts, focus on the weakest and cheapest area first for me this is...

- Brakes
- Suspension
- Gearbox
- Engine

D) Scouting! Scout out everyone who's unemployed, and in the < 20 category. You'll easily find someone better than your starter drivers.*

E) Contracts. Talk to every driver (or staff) you're interested in at the same time, then pick your favourite.*

E++) Contracts, if someone says they're not fussed about a signon-fee or bonus, don't give them one. A token low amount will just offend them, despite saying they weren't interested.*

F) Sponsors... it's better to wait for a realistic deal than sign straight away. Wait until just before the race to sign a sponsor, just incase a better deal comes along.*

G) Headquarters. The factory level 2 is a must, it'll get you up to speed early season much better. The scouting facility also gives you access to a new bunch of unemployed drivers (see scouting above)

H) Staff are cheap performance boosts! Get new mechanics (the chemistry bonus is pretty useful tho so don't break up a longterm relationship in the first few races!)

I) Stop development. The new car is expensive, you're paying for it all season so you'll have a tidy sum when you finish the season, but it's only enough for the bare essentials. At some point mid-to-end of season, stop developing new parts and let your bank balance fill up. The best car in Tier 3 was around £15 million, the 'next years car' payout only gave me £7million

J) Your drivers don't know anything about Inters! I've had 4 different drivers, none of them can make the right call on switching to inters. Let the AI switch to inters first, the you'll start to get a feel for the right timings.*

La "J" non l'ho mica capita... :look:

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Originariamente Scritto da matters

La "J" non l'ho mica capita... :look:

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nemmeno io...ma parla delle gomme intermedie?

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Originariamente Scritto da Mark Silver

nemmeno io...ma parla delle gomme intermedie?

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mi sa che hai ragione!

è che inters vuol dire tutt'altro... questo slang mi sfuggiva. :esd:

Sempre lui Lex

Short Practice
Practice is short (15 minutes) in ERS, but no qualy, so don't focus on laptime. Just do installation laps (leave the pits then immediately click 'Bring in'). You'll get the feedback from your driver without wasting time waiting for them to complete a lap and come back to the pits.
Qualifying
ERS (European Racing Series (Tier 3 (GP3))) doesn't have qualifying at the start. First season was based on reverse championship - which works in your favour if you picked a bad team. Second season was random grids which can go either way (I've had a few cheeky front rows from this). Third season is qualifying. I'll add more to this when I get there!
Races
Start Tyre Selection
Unless you have the fastest car on the grid, if you're starting in the mid-pack, go with the slower more durable tyre. You won't be able to maximise the softer tyre in traffic.

Race starts
Crank everything up to max or you'll be a sitting duck. You'll trash your tires so as soon as you're in clear air or people around you start lowering their tyre mode (look on the timings screen 'tab') start lowering your settings.

First Stint
As you're attacking for the start of the stint, you'll probably only manage half the expected lifetime of the tyre. At the start of the race you're almost always Tyre limited. Don't fill up with too much fuel!*

Check the weather, then check again!
The rain in MM seems to replicate the stereotype of real circuits, Belgium pours, UK showers, Spain is bone dry. But because you can't see far into the forecast, ALWAYS check the weather report, rain comes out of nowhere.*

Pit-Stops
I always select 'fast' pitstop, so far the worst it's done is added 1.4 seconds to a stop (it shows in red below the timer). So definitely worth the 2 seconds it saves on a pitstop.

Switching to Inters
Your drivers don't know anything about Inters! I've had 4 different drivers, none of them can make the right call on switching to inters, they'll scream at you to switch, ignore them. Let the AI switch to inters first, the you'll start to get a feel for the right timings.*

Switching to Wets
You're not Jenson Button yet! If in doubt, stay on inters.

Safety Cars = Free Pitstop!
Unless you literally just came out of the pits

Excess Fuel
In your final stint you should see 'Excess Fuel'. This just means you have 1 milliliter more fuel than you need. When it stops saying 'Excess Fuel', you're introuble, lower the engine till it returns.*

Tyre Temperature
Keep an eye on your tyre temps during the race, too high or two low and you're in trouble. Too low and you'll get graining and run slower (and raised degredation?). Too high, you'll burn through the tyres quickly.*

Even if your tyres have a lot of degredation already, if the temperature is low, you'll need to set the driver to push to try bring that temp up.




Fixing Parts mid-raceEach

element on the car will wear as the race progresses. Early season or with new parts, the reliability is low, so you'll get to the 'red zone' much quicker. The reliability is shown with a horizontal bar, the red 'zone' is red bit, the yellow indicates how long is left until you hit the red zone.*

Performance is only affected when you hit the red zone, it depends on each race circumstance whether you try to fix the part mid-race. If I'm in the last few laps I won't fix it since the time it takes to fix doesn't make it worthwhile, however, once the red zone is completely gone, the part fails and your laptime will plummet alternatively you could be out of the race. So it's a gamble on whether to stay out or pit.*

In the screenshot I've got 2 failing parts, with 2 laps to go, it'd take 30 seconds to fix both and drop me back into 18th place battling Rogers (just coming across the finish line). My pace has dropped, but only by 0.063, so I'm staying out!

What happened next? A double DNF - the first one I've had. When in the red-zone, parts can fail at any moment!
Main
Improving Parts
Make sure your mechanics are always working on something. Aim to get everything to around 65%+ reliability before switching to performance. As the races roll on, reliability becomes less of a concern.

New parts!*
This is the most important part of the early game. Keep the factory rolling with new parts, focus on the weakest and cheapest area first for me this is...*

- Brakes*
- Suspension*
- Gearbox*
- Engine*

Risky Parts
Developing parts with risk is hard to recommend or condone. I ran two risky parts for most of the season (brakes and suspension), at the last race of the year the brakes were spotted. I got a fine £100k and a 2 place penalty (which cost me 4th place in the championship by 1 point!). I also got a letter from Ernie Hecklerock, GMA President saying they're confiscating the part. On the plus side, those illegal parts probably helped me get to 4th in the championship. So I'd probably take the risk again.*

Scouting!*
Scout out everyone who's unemployed, and in the < 20 category. You'll easily find someone better than your starter drivers.*

Contracts
Talk to every driver (or staff) you're interested in at the same time, then pick your favourite based on who accepted your offers.

If someone says they're not fussed about a signon-fee or bonus, don't give them one. A token low amount will just offend them, despite saying they weren't interested.*

Sponsors
It's better to wait for a realistic deal than sign straight away. Wait until just before the race to sign a sponsor, just incase a better deal comes along.*

Headquarters
The factory level 2 is a must, it'll get you up to speed early season much better. The scouting facility also gives you access to a new bunch of unemployed drivers (see scouting above). As you're closing in on the end of the season it's a good time to get new facilities in. Especially if you win some prize-money.

Staff
Staff are cheap performance boosts! Get new mechanics (the chemistry bonus is pretty useful tho so don't break up a longterm relationship in the first few races!)*

Stop developing mid-season, The new car is coming
The new car is expensive, you're paying for it all season so you'll have a tidy sum when you finish the season, but it's only enough for the bare essentials. At some point mid-to-end of season, stop developing new parts and let your bank balance fill up. The best car in Tier 3 was around £15 million, the 'next years car' payout only gave me £7million



Voting & Politics
Choose where you give your f***s... i.e. if you don't really care whether a track uses layout A or B, use the option to 'Abstain'. You'll be able to use that vote for something you really do give a f*** about.

Chairman and Goals
He'll be annoyed if you're not on target, but it only takes 1 or 2 good results to keep him happy. I missed my season 1 target to finish 8th and he didn't care as we'd had a few good results towards the end of the season.

Christian West is rubbish!
A total legend for producing such a brilliant game on mobile and PC. But in the game he's very modestly s*** :D. For me anyway, scout him and see
About Me


Hope that helps someone. I've gone from dead last in the first few races of season 1 to 3 race wins and midfield at the end of season 2. This game is built really nicely and I love that it doesn't give wins cheap.*

I love F1 and closely follow the junior series. I run a website called GP Hub in my spare time.

Consigli da B1gy.... Forum steam
Spesa media per monoposto equilibrata e accettare i dilemmi di inizio anno.

-Inizio stagione inutile migliorare prestazione pezzi base(anche perchè poi verrano praticamente inutilizzati), ma soffermatevi nel rendere affidabile (70-75%)
almeno una vettura (meglio piazzarsi 10e20 che 17e18)

-Per la stessa logica almeno 1 pilota sopra la media a cui dare la prima guida

-Staff a mio modo di vedere molto importante:
Mec. (Prestazione/Affidabilità/PitStop)
Ing. (Ochio ai pezzi "Bloccati")

-Sviluppare molto a inizio stagione (anche perchè alla fine, stabilimento permettendo, non ci sarà molto da migliorare)

-Soffermarsi sulle miglioramento prestazioni da meta stagione in poi quando avrete i componenti migliori che potete permettervi con un affidabilità abbastanza alta (>85%)

-Evitare pezzi illeciti: se scoperti ci si rimette tempo, e molto denaro.

-Prove Libere: Fondamentali (Sia per assetto ma soprattutto per le "conoscenze" che serviranno molto in gara)
Fare solo il giro di lancio finche non si trova un assetto almeno Ottimo

-Qualifiche, siccome il sistema manuale è veramente complicato e gestirne due contemporaneamente è qualsi impossibile, consiglio di farlo in "Instantaneo"

-Gara:
-Tutto Rosso primi 2/3 giri, poi cercate di contenere usura e consumi.
-Utilizzate "Sorpasso" solo quando necessario o sui lunghi rettilinei (secondo me ha un impatto abbastanza alto sull'usura dei componenti, oltre che sul consumo)
-Molto attenti al meteo (soprattutto se non avete una studio di meteorologia come me)


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Inviato dal mio ONE A2003 utilizzando Tapatalk

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Originariamente Scritto da matters

La "J" non l'ho mica capita... :look:

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Non capiscono niente di "Inters". Ma non ci capiscono niente anche gli "inter(s)isti" stessi, quindi... :esd:

Io non ho problemi a gestire due qualifiche manualmente :look:

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Originariamente Scritto da olivar

Io non ho problemi a gestire due qualifiche manualmente :look:

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Come fai a tenere in temperatura giusta freni e pneumatici.. ? Io ci ho capito poco

Inviato dal mio ONE A2003 utilizzando Tapatalk

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Originariamente Scritto da Mark Silver

Come fai a tenere in temperatura giusta freni e pneumatici.. ? Io ci ho poco

Inviato dal mio ONE A2003 utilizzando Tapatalk

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Li fai partire sfalsati

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Originariamente Scritto da olivar

Li fai partire sfalsati

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Ok i piloti... Parlo del "mini gioco" nel giro di lancio...

Inviato dal mio ONE A2003 utilizzando Tapatalk

Molto utile quella roba che hai scritto oggi. Cmq vedo che nella mia partita molti dei consigli dati prima, in inglese, non sono sempre validi...

Inviato dal mio Magic Diary

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Originariamente Scritto da Mark Silver

Ok i piloti... Parlo del "mini gioco" nel giro di lancio...

Inviato dal mio ONE A2003 utilizzando Tapatalk

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Faccio surriscaldare per poi calare. Non sempre riesco a mandare in temperatura ma cmq si qualificano decentemente

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Originariamente Scritto da olivar

Faccio surriscaldare per poi calare. Non sempre riesco a mandare in temperatura ma cmq si qualificano decentemente

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io non ho mai fatto le qualifiche, perché non ce l'ho neanche al secondo anno di gioco in GP3 e non sono neanche previste per l'anno prossimo, ma credo sia come in gara. fai scaldare le gomme fino a quando sono più o meno a metà e poi trovi un modo di farle restare in quella fascia di temperatura. se il problema è che hai solo un giro di lancio, allora vai di rosso e spera si scaldino. considera pure che in questo fa molto la scocca dell'auto, quella che prepari durante la prestagione.

http://f1carsetup.com/index.php?/for...sport-manager/

Inviato dal mio ONE A2003 utilizzando Tapatalk

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Originariamente Scritto da Mark Silver

http://f1carsetup.com/index.php?/for...sport-manager/

Inviato dal mio ONE A2003 utilizzando Tapatalk

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Conosco il sito perché ogni tanto c'ho preso i setup per i F1 della Codemasters... Però secondo me una cosa simile non ha senso per questo gioco... Voglio dire, come cambi un componente cambia il setup dell'auto, e ogni pilota lo vuole in modo diverso...
Forse va bene per una gara secca, ma non per la carriera. SECONDO ME. :)

Inviato dal mio Magic Diary